The SS23 fashion show retraces our history starting from the origins of the brand, reinterpreting the concept of the “Divas”, “ La Dolce Vita”, the Italian spirit and the world of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. The designers, together with Kim, have worked tirelessly side by side over the last few months, to create a collection that is the result of alchemy, magic that has emotionally engaged them in a surprising way.
Kim’s in-depth knowledge of our archives, expertise and ability to project them into the very present day, contributed to create this story rooted in our DNA yet capable of expressing ‘today’. A fashion that starts from a defined DNA, from the roots, will never become obsolete.
When it is rethought, reinterpreted yet retaining its identity, speaks to the new generations: everyone will recognize themselves in. The story begins with the 1987 collection, up to the garments of the 2007 show “Sexy Android”.
Absolutely sensual, the woman proposed for SS23 plays with mix of fabrics, details, and colors in monochrome and mono-textured versions, which perfectly match the timeless style of Dolce&Gabbana. We also find innovative materials such as technical ones and PVC that retrace and re-propose the history of the Brand yet with a new interpretation like the trench coat worn by Kate Moss in the FW 1994/95 “New Rock’n Roll” collection.
Jersey fabric, which has marked the line since the first collections, is proposed on silhouettes that become one with the body, a hymn to elegance made of details and proportions. The wrap-around, close-fitting garments caress and transform the female body, leaving freedom to movement, following it like a second skin.
Tight cuts and stretch fabrics offers the sensation of wearing a real second skin that enhances and pays homage to the concept of inclusivity and the different female body shapes. From plain fabrics we then move on to the world of lace and tulle transparencies. We find it in two versions, stretch on dresses recalling the one worn by Monica Bellucci in the 1992 “La dolce vita” collection, and non-stretch Chantilly, for hyper-feminine and sensual long dresses inspired by the SS 1999 “New Ologram” collection.
The game of materials and monochromatic combinations continues its evolution, proposing metallic effects, crystal mesh inspired by the 1995 collection, silver, doubled and lace inserts on PVC, linked to the 1998 “Stromboli” and 2007 “Sexy android” collections, all of which contributes to create diva looks strong, dynamic and highly recognizable. The iconic Leopard print is proposed in all over prints on fabrics such as jersey, eco fur and terry cloth, which is also presented in the accessories collection.
On the catwalk, the color of choice is obviously absolute black, our ‘Sicilian black’ emphasized by the combination with pearl grey, stone grey, soft blush, optical white, silver and a touch of volcano red. The new proportions change the female figure, where garments are slavishly taken from the archive, the designers shorten, tighten, or lengthen them, presenting them in a different light or with a different styling.
The silhouettes are thus super slim almost second skin, in particular the tops are hyper-slim and hyper-feminine, while trousers and coats become oversized. In the world of corsetry, fundamental in Dolce&Gabbana’s story, we find the crystal-embroidered bustier worn by Naomi Campbell in the FW 1991/92 collection “Le Pin Up” re-proposed alongside bodysuits, guepiers, visible splints, all proposed on completely transparent chiffon, lace, and tulle dresses.
The masculine/feminine code are reinterpreted, it is no longer structured, it is revisited under a feminine aesthetic, playing with lingerie and deconstructed volumes made mainly of jersey. These small and narrow jackets combined with over denim trousers with a destroyed treatment are a homage taken from the FW 1986 “Real Woman” collection, when denim with rips was introduced for the very first time.
In the accessories we find the triumph of the Sicily bag revisited in its proportions from micro to maxi. For this occasion it is also clad in crystal mesh, bezels, terrycloth, PVC, leopard print or smooth calfskin in the new RTW-related color nuances. The shoes’ world consists mainly of mules, sandals and boots with the new 60 heel, matching the handbags’ material.
Stefano and Domenico together with Kim, a true contemporary icon capable of intercepting and reinterpreting the passions of millions of people thanks to her inclusive vision of beauty, create the new SS23, a long story that sees the designers’ creativity and history interlocked with Kim’s vision; for the designers “a truly unique experience”.